đ„ This Week in Spain: Madrid Reigns Supreme
Also insulting the King, buying a phone (company) and Spain's the place to be.
By @IanMount and @AdrianBono | December 21, 2023 | Madrid | Issue #38
đ Welcome to The Tapa, an English-language, weekly newsletter about all things Spain!
đ„ This Week in a Nutshell: Christmas is almost here so everyoneâs totally checked out for the holidays. For once, the political drama seems to be (relatively) small compared to previous weeks so donât expect anything major. Oh, and weâre off for the next two weeks, but fret not! Nothing will happen until after January 6. And if it does, weâve got you covered.
đ Remember that if this email gets truncated at the bottom because itâs too long, just click here to read the rest on Substack.
đ But wait, thereâs more! The Tapa last week began offering paid subscriptions, and weâd be deeply thrilled if you purchased one to help build this enterprise weâve had so much fun creating. And a big THANK YOU to those who already have.
đșIf you havenât subscribed yet, please do so by clicking on the button below.
đ«¶ And if you already have, please send this newsletter around to your friends and family and help us keep growing.
 A tale of two cities
đ Spainâs Economic Battle Royale
Spainâs INE national statistics institute rolled out its official annual economic numbers by community for 2022, which in itself shouldnât be a controversial thing. In fact, the news was downright good!
Spainâs economy grew 5.8% in 2022, recovering its pre-pandemic size in the third quarter of the year. Good news!
But the devilâs in the details. Once you break out the data by community, you see a wide disparity.Â
The GDP per capita in the Community of Madrid and Basque Country were not only #1 and #2 in Spain, they were actually above the EU average. Good news! But⊠at the other end, Extremadura, AndalucĂa and Mellia pulled up the rear at some 40% below the EU average. Not good news!
But what caught the eyes of the commentariatâand caused the most heat (if not actual light)âwas the comparative figures of Madrid and Catalonia. The two came in third and fourth in GDP growth rates, at 7.2% and 6.0%, respectively, behind the tourism hot spots of the Balearic and Canary Islands which, in full post-COVID comeback mode, 12.5% and 9.7%.Â
Not a troubling thing at all, in itself. Unless youâre in the Catalan government, that is. Because the figures reinforce a recent trend: that the Catalan economy is falling further behind that of Madrid, which it led until really quite recently,.
Madrid passed Catalonia in overall GDP in 2018, when Catalonia was dealing with that whole post 1-O illegal referendum blowup.Â
The business world felt a lack of confidence in Catalonia's short term future, and several thousand moved their registered headquarters out of the community. This was mostly symbolic, because theyâve moved their registration but not their employees, but it was a modern first. Catalonia has long been Spainâs economic driver, and Madrid its parochial government hub. And nowâŠwhat?
As the numbers bounced back and forth, the blame game began. Catalan separatists had torpedoed their own economy, many in Madrid said. Cataloniaâs Generalitat responded that Madrid was a paper-tiger, full of post office boxes for businesses but not their actual jobsâand the jobs it had were those of functionaries or stolen with tax breaks from other communities.Â
But the expanding gap is increasingly hard to ignore. El PeriĂłdico blares that Madrid has grown twice as fast as Catalonia since 2010; ABC notes that Madridâs GDP per capita has risen âŹ1,000 more than Cataloniaâs since the pandemic: and El PaĂs adds that Madrid has âamplifiedâ its lead over Catalonia.
What happens now? It seems unlikely that an agreement signed between PM Pedro SĂĄnchezâs PSOE and Catalan separatists Junts to encourage companies to return to Catalonia will have much effect at all (after all, the deal is with the party that tried to break Catalonia away). In fact, Catalonia continues to lose more businesses than it gains.Â
Good for Madrid nationalists, but not for Spain. While Madridâs growth is something to be proud of, getting that growth, even some, by shrinking another community is short term thinking.Â
So what do we need? Probably some kind of basic long-term stability in the Catalan government. Likely to happen? Not right now! (So as to not end on a grim noteâMerry Christmas Happy holidays!)
đ A Message From Our Sponsor

Bucólico Café is a project of connection that was born as a specialty coffee shop.
We value time and understand that it represents both a cycle and an instantâchronology and nostalgia. BucĂłlico is a space that connects oneâs soul with the purity, lightness and beauty of the countrysideâwhile being in the city. Via a cup of coffee, a piece of cake or a songâŠ
Located on Calle de Barbieri 4 â a few blocks from Plaza Chueca â BucĂłlico reassures the soul with a feeling of home.
Follow Bucólico Café on Instagram.
đŹ Five things to discuss at dinner parties this week
1. Â đ You may now insult the king
Left wing Sumar presented a bill in Parliament Tuesday that would decriminalize insults to the King and Royal Family as well as for justifying or celebrating terrorism.Â
The bill was accepted for debate by a vote of 177 to 169, with support from the PSOE socialists of PM Pedro SĂĄnchez, Sumarâs coalition partner.Â
Insulting the King? Celebrating terrorism? Yes, you guessed right. These are super sensitive issues in Spain, since at base they act as proxies for where people stand on monarchy vs republic, center vs regions, and pretty much any other issue that dogs Spain today.Â
So letâs dive in! Because we love controversy
First, the socialists. The PSOE has been avoiding making a stand on this question for a whileâbeing pro-criminalization seems a bit right-wingy for them, but total decriminalization opens them to charges of being anti-Spanish institutions and insensitive to Spainâs many ETA victims.Â
The issue was such a minefield that back in October 2020 the PSOE rejected a Podemos/ERC proposal to decriminalize insults to the Crownâalongside the PP and Vox (!).
Whatâs changed? Well, for one thing, this year the PSOE needed the votes of Sumarâand ERC and othersâto return to government. So, as Spainâs political atmosphere has grown more partisan, theyâre more dependent on the extremes.Â
The socialistsâ plan: They say they are now open to decriminalize insults to the Crownâbut not for justifying or celebrating terrorism. (Weâll see how long that but stands, in light of recent switches on amnesty, etc.)
Second, the right. It wonât surprise anyone that the PP and Vox harshly criticized the PSOE. The PP said the PSOE had taken on the legislative agenda of its âradicalâ associates and this was going one more step in the attempt to âerode the rule of law and attack the parliamentary monarchy that all the presidents of the Government have defended until now.âÂ
PP boss Alberto NĂșñez FeijĂło then suggested tighter laws to prohibit tributes to terrorists; ensure that they cannot be pardoned; and ensure that electoral lists do not include those convicted of violent crimes.
Our view (for what itâs worth). The PSOE was right to suggest, on Tuesday, that these laws impede on free speech rights (note: this doesnât include when people are inciting violence, of course).Â
This seems especially true in terms of royal insults. Charges brought over insulting the Crown have largely served to unjustifiably elevate to stardom mediocre rappers who sing against the King/Bourbons (weâre talking about you, ValtĂČnycâsee video above).
Paying tribute to terrorists is a tougher issue, especially considering Spainâs history. Again, calling for violence? Nope, do not pass go. Saying a terrorist is a good person or making a joke about what they did? Arguably in very bad taste, but maybe itâs best to know what people think?Â
Cases like that of Cassandra Vera, who was convicted for tweeting jokes about the ETA killing of Francoâs head of government Luis Carrero Blanco show how muddled and unconvincing the imposition of these penalties can be.Â
2. Â Â đ Whatâs going on at the Ateneo de Madrid?
Hereâs a juicy mystery: Why would a government drop an annual subsidy to a 200+ year-old culture mainstay after 25 straight years, with no real explanation? Just asking for a friendâbecause that just happened in Madrid.
What we do know: Madridâs regional government, led by Isabel DĂaz Ayuso, this week told the Ateneo de Madridâa library and cultural center dating back 203 years that has counted among its members historic intellectuals from Unamuno and Valle-InclĂĄn to Gregorio Marañónâthat it wouldnât be getting the âŹ100,000 it got in 2023.
Fight breaks out: Ateneo boss Luis Arroyo and Madrid regional cultural minister Mariano de Paco start hashing it out like all people who want an audience doâon X.Â
Basically, it went like this: Arroyo said de Paco told he the Ateneo would be losing its subsidy without any justification. De Paco answered that Arroyo knew full well he said they would be switching the Ateneoâs subsidy to per-event grants to spend the region's money more efficiently. Then Arroyo repliesâbut that doesnât explain why.
Thereâs got to be more. And there is. The basic rumor is that a political fight between the PP and the PSOE is behind the drama. Arroyo used to work as a communications advisor to PSOE PM JosĂ© Luis RodrĂguez Zapatero and is involved with socialist politics, and supposedly Ayuso was tired of âthe sectarianâ who âdedicated himself to insulting her in privateâ and of the Ateneo being used for partisan purposes.Â
Arroyo defended himself in an interview with El PaĂs, noting that everyone knew his (left wing) politics but that he was âimpeccableâ in his broadmindedness, and that people of all political stripes were members of the Ateneo (including ex-PP PMs Rajoy and Aznar). Also, he says, heâs invited Ayuso several times.
But the cloud gets thicker! As Arroyo critics strike back.
Some Ateneo members told other news outlets that the center had become a âbranch of the PSOEâ under Arroyo and that he had dictatorial tendenciesâthat, in fact, the last Junta de Socios ended with members shouting 'dictator, fascist, thugâ at him, and he was using the Ateneo like a âprivate clubâ for his left-leaning faction.
Ultimately, the subsidy cut hasnât seemed to go over well with anyone (save, maybe, for these dissenting voices). Itâs a shame to see an important cultural institution lose part of its budget (even if itâs only 7%) in a political fightâand this seems like oneâeven if Arroyo is annoying. Institution presidents come and go, after all.Â
Itâs also worth noting that others on the right support the Ateneo. The PP-led Madrid city hall is still giving it âŹ150,000 for 2024. And even Vox doesnât like the subsidy cut, calling it an âembarrassmentâ as the Ateneo is the âcradle of libertyâ through whose halls have passed âalmost all the Spanish Nobels, the presidents, the liberals, those of the left, and those of the right.âÂ
For perhaps the first time, we think Vox has a point.
3. đ§đ»ââïž âTis the Season! (To Wear Clothes, Apparently)
Get ready to clutch your pearls, everyone! Because this story includes men in underwear and âinappropriateâ Christmas lights.
As a certain cartoon character would say:
Two funny (not in a ha-ha way) stories made the rounds on social media this week, and both of them involved partial nudity and what some are saying is blatant censorship.
The first concerns a play called Itâs So Difficult starring a group of men in their underwear that was supposed to be performed at the municipal theater of Quintanar de la Orden, a small town in the province of Toledo. But oh no! The townâs City Hall, currently under PP-Vox control, has decided to cancel the play because, according to both parties, the actors on stage appear semi-naked.
According to Culture councilwoman MarĂa del Carmen Vallejo (PP), the decision was made because she âwasnât sure the people from Quintanar de la Orden were going to like itâ. Vallejo then said she would âgo see it somewhere else, and if she likes itâ she might approve of it being shown. The play was supposed to take place on Jan. 27.
The production company behind the play is livid and is accusing the PP-Vox government of censorship using the hashtag #stopcensura on social media, adding that Vallejo herself told them she was worried that âthe audience may be scandalizedâ by the sight of men wearing underwear. *gasp* đ
They explain that the play has already been shown in 22 other towns and in front of over 3,000 people and not a single person has complained. Even PM Pedro SĂĄnchez made a reference to the cancelation while addressing Parliament this week.
But thatâs not the only puritanical scandal weâve had to face this week. Letâs head to the town of Tordesillas, in the province of Valladolid, where something is keeping people awake at night.
Pedestrians walking along the townâs Av. Valladolid realized that the Christmas lights that were decorating its streets this year were not christmassy at all. In fact, they were âinappropriateâ because they not only featured butterflies (something that is obviously unrelated to Christmas) but also fairies that, according to the locals, were too âeroticâ because they were âshowing their nipplesâ.

